Repairing the power jack problem is no easy task and there are no shortcuts to speak of. Depending on the model you have dictates wither it’s a fiddly job or an easy job.
Be Warned ! We do not take any responsibilities for any work carried out from information in these pages nor by others other than our qualified staff.
Usually the widescreen ones are harder to disassemble but easier to make a solid repair. The smaller ones may need reinforcing of the socket and can be very fiddly to repair.
If your Soldering Skills are weak or average then I wouldn't recommend you continue.
We offer our repair services locally at a very reasonable rate. Sorry No service outside EU.
We do offer a DVD Video Tutorial for anyone that is interested.
To give you a slight insight on the soldering required: Copper and lead mixed with oxygen and a constant charge has the tendency to build up acid (Like in a car battery) usually if you have a solid joint then there are no problems but on a weak or dry joint you have to remove the acid surface and discharge so that no current comes from any large capacitors etc. before soldering.
You have to be very careful in doing this as you can destroy the computer in a brief second. If you don't know what I am talking about then also this job is not for you.
On with the Task:
Now you need to make notes of what screws come from where. A good tip is to Use a Digital Camera and make notes of size and type. Do each section in zones and document each. I usually zone up in this order: Component removal (Memory, Wireless, hard drive etc), Underside Zone,
, Rear Zone, Keyboard Zone, CPU & Cooling Zone, Cable Zone, Internal Components Zone (CD Rom, Floppy etc), Motherboard Zone and finally Miscellaneous Zone.
We all have different methods, choose one that suites you and stick to that.
Bare in mind that you will have different screw sizes, types and material (color etc) Look carefully for machine thread and self tapping etc.
Account for all screw and components carefully as if you lose one it may be one you let slip or drop in or on to the motherboard, If you have one or two over then its not so bad, but I advice you strip the board back down until you have neither screws over or short of.
Very Important:
Protect yourself and work area from electrostatic before you begin.
Remove Components from underside Compartments, Remove all screws from underside zone. A good tip is always work carefully removing screws from Top Left and work down to Lower Right. Next Remove Screws from rear zone. Next Open Lid and pop the Panel above the keypad, remove a key if you need to. Pop it careful from one end to the other. (I find if you remove the [Del] or [F12] key then pop from right to left) Below this panel are the Keyboard zone screws. Carefully remove the ribbon cables, LCD plug then all other screws. Remove LCD Screen. You should be able to lift the top away from the bottom base. Remove Components, then heat sink and fan, pop the catch for the CPU remove CPU and all other screws. Remove all cables that attach to motherboard. You may need to remove the nuts from the Com Ports.
If you have a small or confined space inside the laptop you should be extra careful around the sound sockets as the casing can be very fragile there, take your time and ease it will come free, use the rear ports as space to lever free. (Rock the board gently left, right).
OK you should have the motherboard out by now.
Now that you have the board out, verify the power jack is the problem, 10x magnification with a magnifying glass should help. Plug in the charger DC Plug without power ! (Unplugged from Mains or Switched off) While you look under the glass, move the plug left to right then you should see movement. This should give you the complete confidence that you have found the possible problem. As mentioned before other problems may have been caused because of the powerjack problem.
Don't use the charger as earth when you solder.
When I work from home I usually earth myself up to a radiator or sink. Earth yourself and short the power to the DC Socket. One safe and simple way is to short a old spare solder type DC plug (Component) and plug this in while you solder. Clean joints on power jack from grime and acid, and flux from solder joints. Test with multimeter, turn board over, check for space and use some epoxy resin to bond the socket on topside. Please Note: It is not wise to cover any other components with resin due to possible overheating. Let dry properly and reassemble.
Tips commonly forgotten:
Don’t forget the LCD Monitor Plug (Below Top Keyboard Panel). Take care to study how the flat cable connector works. (Usually there is a zero insertion lock). Don’t forget to pull wifi cables (Black and White) through the board.
Keyboard and Touchpad Flat cables. And finally insert components.
Finally:
Plug the DC Plug and check the light is solid, if not or nothing happens, switch off, check power etc. If all is good but no light then you need to go back and re examine your work.
Nice solid light, switch on and hopefully you can boot up.
Don’t worry if your drive is corrupt, you just need to choice to recover or format and start again (Installation)
